The 2023 Mont de Milieu is one of the more structured and serious Premier Cru expressions in the Billaud-Simon range. It shows the ripe charm of the 2023 vintage, but with a firmer, more mineral-driven backbone than Fourchaume. Expect notes of ripe lemon, grapefruit, quince, green apple, white flowers, wet stone, chalk, iodine and subtle spice. The palate is fresh, energetic and mouth-watering, with good concentration, fine mineral tension and a long, saline finish. Compared with Les Vaillons, this feels a touch more powerful and structured; compared with Fourchaume, it is less openly generous and more classically Chablis in its grip and drive. Excellent with oysters, sashimi, sushi, scallops, grilled prawns, lobster, crab, steamed fish, roast chicken, creamy seafood pasta, mushroom risotto, goat cheese and Comté. For a Singapore table, pair it with Teochew steamed pomfret, Cantonese steamed garoupa, drunken prawns, lobster noodles, crab bee hoon, seafood hor fun or dim sum with prawn and scallop fillings.